Issue Ten

    Located in the eastern region of France, Burgundy is home to some of the world’s finest and most sought after wines, both for their tradition and elegance.  There are two prevailing grapes in the Burgundy region.  White Burgundy is locally known as chablis or chardonnay, while red Burgundy consists of the pinot noir grape.  These wines are classified in descending order as grand cru, premier cru, village wine and regional wine.  Unlike its brethren Bordeaux in southwestern France, Burgundy vineyards are smaller, production is lower and the wines are traditionally lighter and younger in body-style.  They can be consumed young, maturing in 5 or 6 years, although some can age for up to 20 years.  Burgundy wines are often revered because to find an exceptional wine, one must search through a multitude of inferior wines.
    The characteristics of pinot noir lend to its majesty.  Unlike grapes of the Bordeaux (cabernet sauvignon and merlot), which grow in varying conditions, pinot noir needs a cool climate and steady temperature.  The thin skin of the grape makes it easily susceptible to weather variances, temperature, climate, disease and even vine management.  Additionally, discrepancies in quality can be attributed, in part, to the multitude of soil variances.  The consistency of soil can vary between regions, vineyards and even dirt roads.
   When producing such a meticulous wine, tradition and perseverance prevail.  France has always been a leader in traditional wine production, and Burgundy is no exception.  Many vineyards have been producing wine for hundreds of years, with single vines almost as old.  Additionally, some producers still use such traditional methods as horse-drawn field plowing and pesticide-free irrigation.
    When speaking of Burgundy wines and exceptional production, there is one name that evokes a sense of marvel, admiration and even lust–the wines of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.  Located in Côte d’Or, in the heart of Burgundy, here wine production is first-rate and the grand cru pinot noirs are second to none. Grand cru Burgundies account for only 1.5% of all Burgundy wines.  Domaine de la Romanée-Conti is Burgundy’s most famous wine, and one of the world’s most elite producers.  Now surrounded by a handful of grand cru vineyards such as La Tâche, Richebourg, Romanée-St.-Vivant, Grands Échezeaux and Échezeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti can trace its history back to 1232 when monks of the Priory of St. Vincent donated the land to the Abbey of Saint-Vivant.  Initially, the land was known as Cros des Clous until four hundered years later when the de Croonembourg family bought the land and renamed it Romanée as it still stands today.  To date, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti has had only nine owners in almost nine centuries.
    Domaine de la Romanée-Conti has become the holy grail of Burgundy enthusiasts.  Averaging only a few thousand cases upon release, these wines are hard to come by to say the least.  When new vintages are released, only six or seven wines are produced.  Being among the select few that are invited to experience a sampling is an event in itself.  Although these wines are few in production, they are available in restaurants and retail stores.  They may be the most expensive bottles you have ever encountered, but their quality warrents the price. To taste them and experience their illustrious lore, is worth any monetary sacrifice that may be made.  Drinking a wine with such history and passionate devotion, becomes an event that one will cherish and reflect upon.  These are what the Italians call “vino di meditazione” or “meditation wine.”  They are to be admired, reflected upon and shared with friends. Domaine de la Romanée-Conti is an epiphany, a fleeting opportunity to experience how soil, grape, climate and wine maker can come together to achieve perfection.

    –photo by dellas