Issue Four

Being the only city to straddle two continents, Europe and Asia, Istanbul was destined to be a major player in world history. Located at the point where the Black Sea and the Mediterranean converge, Istanbul, throughout history, had a crucial advantage over other cities as it was situated along the mainland routes between the East and the West. Throughout history, its strategic location helped Istanbul gain its key position along ancient trade routes.

It was Emperor Constantine in A.D. 330 who gave the city its former name. He declared the city the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire and renamed it Constantinople. From that time, the Byzantine Empire held a firm grip on its heritage for almost one thousand years, reaching its height of grandeur in A.D. 527-565 under Byzantine Emperor Justinian I.

Almost a thousand years later, the Empire disintegrated into the hands of the Oslanli Turks, known by Westerners as the Ottomans. It was then in 1453, that Sultan Mehmet II, “the Conquerer,” came to power after inviting another emperor called Constantine to surrender. Under the reign of Mehmet II, his new city became known to the Turks as Istanbul, the capital of the Ottoman Empire. The name is thought to have derived from a Turkish mispronunciation of the Greek, I-Stopol, which means ‘to the city’.

During the pinnacle of imperial power during the 1550s, Constantinople’s realm stretched from the walls of Vienna to Yemen. But in the end it proved incapable of holding on to its land at home as the last of the Ottomans were defeated by Turkish Nationalists. After this battle the capital was moved to Ankara where it became the official capital of the Turkish Republic in 1923. Subsequently, the former capital of Constantinople was given its new name, Istanbul, in 1930.

Although Ankara is the current political capital, Istanbul is the undisputed center of the country’s financial and industrial power and its artistic and cultural activity.

“It’s a big commercial city with one sixth of Turkey’s people living there,” said Mustafa Memisoglu, Director of the Turkish Tourist office in London. “The number of tourists traveling to Turkey has been increasing over the years with German tourists making up the biggest part of the market. However, post September 11th, the number of tourists from the United States and the United Kingdom decreased while other European, Central European and Russian tourists increased compared to 2000. The number of tourists from the United States was increasing year by year. 500,000 US citizens went to Turkey in 2000 but after September 11th the numbers fell,” said Memisoglu. “But it will recover, not this year, but next year, at least we hope,” he added.

The wide range of festivals this spring and summer is bound to attract many music, film and theater fans from all over the world. Kicking off the spring and summer cultural calendar is the 21st International Istanbul Film Festival. This year’s festival runs from April 13–28, featuring over 180 contemporary and classic films from all over the world. Every year the Festival looks at a recent contribution to international cinema from one country. This year Germany will be featured, showing nine films from young German directors.

In May, the 13th International Istanbul Theater Festival begins its two-week run. Visitors will get the rare chance to view international theatre in Istanbul. The aim of the Festival is to show some of the best displays of creativity in numerous disciplines from Turkey and elsewhere. This year, the Festival, which combines light, sound, video, and fireworks in the form of striking theater, runs from May, 18-June, 4. While most of the performances take place in the city’s theaters, some productions are held in more unusual venues such as the Rumel Hisari fortress, located on the Bosphorus.

“The music festival is the one of the biggest cultural events in Turkey,” said Mustafa Memisoglu, referring to the 30th International Istanbul Music Festival. Running from June, 7-July 1, the Festival calendar bursts with around 30 concerts ranging from chamber music, dance and ballet to orchestras and recitals. This year includes the London Philharmonic Orchestra with Paavo Berglund and Kiri Te Kanawa, the Violins of the Berlin Philharmonic, Maria de Buenos Aires Tango Operita with Gidon Kremer and Kremerata Musica.

Aside from the music, the Hagia Eirene Church (now known as the Aya Irini Museum), has to be one of the most magnificent concert venues of the Festival. Closed most of the time, concert goers get the rare chance to see one of the largest and most stunning of all the Byzantine churches.

Another hot item on the summer calendar is the International Istanbul Jazz Festival that runs from July 5-20 this year. Music enthusiasts experience much more than contemporary jazz, as there are a variety of sounds from rai and electronica to salsa and hip-hop. The venues range from the clubs and streets of Istanbul to the famous open-air theater. Some of the big names last year included Sting, The Buena Vista Social Club, Nick Cave, Dianne Reeves and Celia Cruz. At the time of writing, the program for Summer 2002 was not yet available. For more information on all Istanbul Festivals mentioned, go to www.istfest.org.

In between concerts and plays, visitors can’t possibly leave Istanbul without wandering around the historic areas as it is the best way to explore the city’s present and glorious past. The Sultanahmet area is the historical hub of the city, with some of the most significant and spectacular architectural sights in the world.

Restored numerous times under Byzantine and Ottoman rulers, the Haghia Sophia was built by Emperor Justinian around 532 to 537 as a church. It then became a mosque and is now a museum. The Sultan Mehmet II was responsible for converting the church to a mosque and adding the brick minaret. The dome is unlike any other in Istanbul; it is 101 feet in diameter and 183 feet high, according to the book, Turkey, an Aerial Portrait (Copyright 1993, Harry N. Abrams, Inc, Publishers, New York).

Before we leave the wonders of the Justinian era, visitors must see one of the most tremendous underground cisterns in Istanbul which was built by Justinian. The Yerebatan Sarayi is the biggest of Istanbul’s old Byzantine reservoirs. This cistern acted as the principal water supply for part of the city during the Byzantine and Ottoman Empires.

Another architectural wonder is the Blue Mosque. The mosque, known as the Sultanahmet Mosque, has an almost magical exterior, particularly beautiful at night. It is commonplace to take off your shoes upon entering a mosque. While you are wandering around in your socks, be sure to look up to catch the beauty of a myriad of blue Iznik tiles, whose color gives the mosque its name.

You will need to spend at least half a day at the Topkapi Palace to explore the labyrinth of several buildings built over a period of centuries. This palace was the center of Ottoman dominance for over 300 years. Its sumptuousness brings to mind the elaborate decor of the Alhambra in Spain. The buildings encircle a large central courtyard which dates back to the 15th century while others date to the 18th and 19th century. Some of the many highlights of the Palace that cannot be missed are the Harem and the Imperial Treasury. Be sure to rest your limbs over a Turkish coffee at the Palace’s pavilions which have breathtaking views overlooking the Bosphorus.

Another highlight is the Grand Bazaar, packed with exotic sights, sounds and smells of Istanbul. If you aren’t familiar with the haggling ways of buyers and sellers in a typical Middle Eastern souk, or bazaar, the experience could be somewhat overwhelming. The Grand Bazaar has a vast number of items which range from tiles to fabric, to lanterns and carpets. It is common to be asked by sellers in several languages, “Italiani?, Francaises?, Americans?,” so that they can better persuade you in your native tongue. If you glance at a stall, that unofficially gives the sellers the right to sell you anything they can. As we passed various leather, carpet and gold stalls moustashed men did their best to persuade us with some hilarious comments and questions in English such as “Something for your mudder-in-law?” or “Carpets are cheaper than water today.” If the shopping gets too much for you, be sure to visit the Sark Kahvesi, a charming café smack in the middle of the market. Not far from the Grand Bazaar, you can meander your way to the L-shaped corridor of the Spice Bazaar (also known as the Egyptian Market). Visitors are inundated by the delightful smells and sights of mounds of green henna, dates, nuts and potions or so-called aphrodisiacs. Some of the best Turkish delight around is sold in this market. If hunger pangs get the best of you, not far from the northern market entrance is Pandeli’s restaurant which has a delicious fish menu. Just beware of the high prices and the enthusiastic waiters who may overcharge.

After endless shopping and bargaining for a kilim or tiles or fabric, you can relax by treating yourself to a Hammam, or Turkish bath. The ritual of the Turkish bath is waning but it is definitely worth the trip. The best time to go is in the morning to catch the light coming through the domes of the bath. For tourists, the most recommended baths are Cemberlitas or Cagaloglu.

Finally, no trip to Istanbul would be complete without a trip up the Bosphorus by boat. The best way is to grab the ferry to view the lovely palaces along the banks of the Bosphorus. For a trip to Asia, or at least the Asian shore, take the 20-minute ferry ride and visit the urban center, Uskudar.

Despite the sometimes unruly taxidrivers who can overcharge or the pestering carpet sellers on the streets, Istanbul has all the charms of a bustling, modern city living among its imperial past.

Whether it be sampling outdoor seafood at a waterfront piazza, or listening to jazz in an open air theater on a moonlit night, Istanbul is unforgettable. With its stunning architecture and breathtaking views along the Bosphorus, it offers its inhabitants and visitors the best of the East and West.